Carole's House introduces French bakery café to Naples area - - Gulfshore Business

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The Memorial Day weekend launch of a modern café and French bakery in East Naples is the beginning of a local business concept with plans to open as many as a half-dozen locations by the end of 2023. 

The second location is already underway for Carole’s House Café & French Bakery, which opened Sunday in the St. Andrews Square retail center on U.S. 41 East. Co-owners Carole Dahan and Christophe Mars, both North Naples residents, extensively renovated the former corner space of the French Bread Oven at 8793 Tamiami Trail E., Suite 105-1. 

Carole’s House, open for breakfast and lunch from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily, creates authentic and fresh-baked French pastries and desserts. The menu includes breads, sandwiches and salads with coffee from locally based Narrative Coffee Roasters. The business also offers a catering service. 

“We have a very simple and clean menu. I wanted to create something where people can have a simple salad and sandwich with clean bread,” said Mars, noting that he’s a label freak when it comes to ingredients. “We are very conscious of what we put in the sandwiches. We bake everything in-store every morning.” 

Mars had initially planned to open Carole’s House last November but construction was delayed. In the meantime, he rented a commercial kitchen off Old 41 Road in North Naples and started serving the Village Walk of Naples community on weekend mornings. “Unfortunately, I had to stop because it’s very difficult to find staff to do both,” he said.

Nevertheless, Mars and Dahan signed a lease a couple of months ago and plan to begin interior demolition soon for the second helping of Carole’s House in The Strand, a Publix-anchored shopping center on Immokalee Road in North Naples. They hope to open the café by the end of July or the beginning of August in a longtime vacant office space next door to a Chinese takeout restaurant. 

The second location is coming sooner than they had planned but Mars said he couldn’t pass up a good opportunity. “I still want to take my time because I want to do things right,” he said. “I want to take time with one and two so that I improve my concept.” 

With that being said, Carole’s House is on a roll now. “We already are negotiating a third location closer to downtown Naples,” said Mars, mentioning plans for additional spots possibly in Fort Myers and Tampa. “We hope to have like five or six by the end of 2023.”  

Mars’ background is in finance. After the Great Recession’s financial crisis, he relocated from France to the United States to start a new career as a food service entrepreneur. “When I moved to the U.S. in December 2010, I did a conversion to be in this industry,” he said. “It’s an industry that I chose. I really love this industry. I love food and I love people. I feel blessed because I really love what I’m doing.”

Meeting his business partner was a bit serendipitous. “Carole’s not someone I knew before but I grew up with her sister in Marseille. I met Carole because I reconnected with my friend,” he said, noting that a vacation in Southwest Florida connected all the dots. “We realized we had some common goals,” he said.  

Carole represents hospitality, he said, so he named the business after her to create a sense of home that connects people and food. “Carole is really the most welcoming person I have known,” Mars said. “I really want people to come to the store and feel invited by us. I just want people to come and enjoy.” 

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Café Reconcile Executive Chef Martha Wiggins to Host Wine Dinner Featuring Ole Orleans Wines - New Orleans Magazine

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NEW ORLEANS (press release) – Café Reconcile Executive Chef Martha Wiggins, Ole Orleans Wines, New Orleans Wine & Food Experience to produce four-course wine dinner served family style Wednesday, June 8.

Café Reconcile’s Wine Dinner is hosted in partnership with the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience (NOWFE), a non-profit organization with 100 percent of its proceeds going to causes that support culinary education. Café Reconcile is a 2022 NOWFE beneficiary.

Proceeds from the Wine Dinner benefit Reconcile New Orleans’ mission to transform the lives of young adults by encouraging personal growth, providing workforce development and training, and equipping young people with the tools to achieve their potential.

WHEN:              Wednesday, June 8

6 p.m. Cocktail Hour; 7 p.m. Family-Style Dinner

WHERE:            Café Reconcile

1631 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., New Orleans

HOW:                 Tickets are $100 per person and include a cocktail hour featuring bites and beverages followed by a delectable four-course meal served family-style, prepared by Café Reconcile Executive Chef Martha Wiggins and perfectly paired wines by Ole Orleans Winery. Seating is limited. Purchase tickets online at www.cafereconcile.org. 

First Course

Louisiana Crab Fingers, Smoked Tomato Butter, Leidenheimer Pistolette

Salt and Pepper Shrimp and Oysters, Green Garlic Dressing, Charred Lemons

Accompanied by Wards White Rhone Blend

Second Course

Creole Tomato Salad, Brown Butter Vinaigrette, Aged Gouda, Sea Salt

Accompanied by Heritage Riesling

Third Course

Berbere Lamb Loin, Honey Wine Jus

Pan Roasted Local Mushrooms and Cauliflower, Mustard Green Romesco

Brown Rice Grits, Goat and Sheep’s Milk Cheese

Accompanied by Circa 2005 Syrah

Fourth Course

Dark Chocolate Torte, Blackberry Ganache, Hazelnut Praline

Accompanied by Ole’ Carrollton Blanc du Bois

WHY:                

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Café Reconcile Executive Chef Martha Wiggins to Host Wine Dinner Featuring Ole Orleans Wines - New Orleans Magazine

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NEW ORLEANS (press release) – Café Reconcile Executive Chef Martha Wiggins, Ole Orleans Wines, New Orleans Wine & Food Experience to produce four-course wine dinner served family style Wednesday, June 8.

Café Reconcile’s Wine Dinner is hosted in partnership with the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience (NOWFE), a non-profit organization with 100 percent of its proceeds going to causes that support culinary education. Café Reconcile is a 2022 NOWFE beneficiary.

Proceeds from the Wine Dinner benefit Reconcile New Orleans’ mission to transform the lives of young adults by encouraging personal growth, providing workforce development and training, and equipping young people with the tools to achieve their potential.

WHEN:              Wednesday, June 8

6 p.m. Cocktail Hour; 7 p.m. Family-Style Dinner

WHERE:            Café Reconcile

1631 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., New Orleans

HOW:                 Tickets are $100 per person and include a cocktail hour featuring bites and beverages followed by a delectable four-course meal served family-style, prepared by Café Reconcile Executive Chef Martha Wiggins and perfectly paired wines by Ole Orleans Winery. Seating is limited. Purchase tickets online at www.cafereconcile.org. 

First Course

Louisiana Crab Fingers, Smoked Tomato Butter, Leidenheimer Pistolette

Salt and Pepper Shrimp and Oysters, Green Garlic Dressing, Charred Lemons

Accompanied by Wards White Rhone Blend

Second Course

Creole Tomato Salad, Brown Butter Vinaigrette, Aged Gouda, Sea Salt

Accompanied by Heritage Riesling

Third Course

Berbere Lamb Loin, Honey Wine Jus

Pan Roasted Local Mushrooms and Cauliflower, Mustard Green Romesco

Brown Rice Grits, Goat and Sheep’s Milk Cheese

Accompanied by Circa 2005 Syrah

Fourth Course

Dark Chocolate Torte, Blackberry Ganache, Hazelnut Praline

Accompanied by Ole’ Carrollton Blanc du Bois

WHY:                

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Community-Minded Cafe Red Reopens With New Vegan Goods - South Seattle Emerald

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by Amanda Ong

---

After almost seven months of in-person closure, Cafe Red in Othello reopened its doors for service in April. The return of the beloved neighborhood café comes with a new all-vegan menu, plenty of goods from local companies, and a renewed commitment to community.

More than anything, co-owners Jesiah Wurtz and Haley Williams hope that through their thoughtful space, food, and events, they can offer the community a place of love, safety, and authenticity. 

“We all just kind of need some grace, and so love is really important to me to be able to create a space where anybody can walk through the doors and feel like they belong, where it just feels like you can show up and just be yourself fully, authentically,” Wurtz said. “And I think, historically, there haven’t been a ton of those spaces.”

It’s been a long pandemic road for the all-vegan café that originally started as a bicycle cafe pop-up in 2015. In March 2020 they closed the café due to the onset of COVID-19. Then they reopened August 2020 to August 2021, then shut down until reopening this April. 

For Williams and Wurtz, veganism is a vital aspect of the café’s ability to serve the South Seattle community. “People talk a lot about how South Seattle is a food desert,” Wurtz said in an interview with the South Seattle Emerald. “If people are looking for plant-based options, [they’re] pretty few and far between. Some people care about animal welfare and suffering. Other people care about the environmental impact of their decisions. Other people need to pay attention to their health … But one of the biggest barriers is accessibility, and so we just kind of wanted to make it easy for people to make that decision.”

“When we started we actually opened up vegetarian,” Williams said. “But we’re both vegan, and [the pandemic] gave us a chance to close and rethink why not just be fully vegan? If we’re failing veganism, our own values, why not incorporate [veganism] into the actual café?” 

“I think it always felt wrong to offer things on the menu that we wouldn’t even eat ourselves,” Wurtz said.

Wurtz and Williams are both particularly excited for some of their new menu offerings and partnerships with other vegan restaurants and foodmakers. They’re working with No Bones Beach Club, a women-owned vegan company that had restaurants in Ballard and Portland, but have since closed because of the pandemic and are running from a wholesale model. Cafe Red will be offering their artichoke blossoms and cauliflower wings, and hope former fans of No Bones Beach Club’s Ballard location will come try them.

They are also partnering with another woman-owned vegan company called Snacktivist Foods, that specializes in gluten-free baking mixes. They are using their ingredients to offer new pastries to their menus, including chocolate chip cookies and soon, brownies. 

“Hopefully next month we’ll have this out, but I grew up in Ohio out at a small bakery there,” Wurtz said. “Prior to me being 10 years old, I have a lot of memories from that. And we’re working on veganizing those recipes.”

Their sandwiches and their mac and cheese use tofu from ChuMinh Tofu, which is known for their community mutual aid work and whose tofu factory is down the street from Cafe Red. Their bread comes from Moon Village Bakery in Skyway, which Wurtz says is run by a young South Seattle family. 

“[Moon Village Bakery] has just really amazing brand new special recipes for breakfast breads,” Wurtz said. “They call them Moon muffins. It’s basically a twist on English muffins. They’re a little bit bigger and denser than English muffins, and are just a really special recipe they made for us.”

They also are working with the Apple Guy, who in turn works with farms in Eastern Washington to bring apples directly to people and skip the distribution middlemen, so that farmers can get better prices. 

Wurtz is particularly excited about supporting Fulcrum Coffee, which is run by Blas Alfaro from his roastery in SoDo.

“Fulcrum Coffee is run by a fifth generation Costa Rican, queer, coffee farmer, [whose family has] grown coffee since the early 1800s,” Wertz said. “And they have grown up literally picking coffee as a kid on a coffee farm. [Fulcrum] really has such a deep heart for the experience of coffee farmers, understands their struggle, and is just so intentional about finding ways to support them … it really does more than I’ve seen any other roaster in Seattle do to really support the communities [Alfaro] sources coffee from.”

Prior to the pandemic, Cafe Red was hosting several events a week prioritizing artists from South Seattle, and Wurtz and Williams are particularly concerned with housing issues and sweeps in the area. Past South Seattle-based performers have included Ready Ron Beats, Essam, Esai, and Planet 39. They have also hosted national acts, like Carnage the Executioner.

“This is what the people in South Seattle are doing, what’s up,” Wurtz said. “That’s kind of what we see the space as. We want it to be a stepping stone where people can come in and be themselves and do their thing and use it as a stepping stone to get to wherever they’re off to next.”

Cafe Red does not plan to host as many events per week as they did prior to the pandemic, but hope to begin hosting open mics soon. A reopening party on May 20 featured artists from Ready Ron’s Takeover Music Collective and Shubzilla/Bill Beats’ Noir Grime label, and free vegan donuts from Dough Joy were available for the first 125 attendees. 

Visit Cafe Red at 7148 MLK Jr. Blvd S. The café is open for both dine-in and patio seating Tuesday through Sunday. From Tuesday through Friday, they are open from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday they are open 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. People can also order ahead or for pick up on the Joe app.

---

Amanda Ong (she/her) is a Chinese American writer from California. She is currently a master’s candidate at the University of Washington Museology program and graduated from Columbia University in 2020 with degrees in creative writing and ethnicity and race studies.

📸 Featured Image: Beloved neighborhood spot Cafe Red has emerged from the pandemic with an all-vegan menu and a greater commitment to community. (Photo: Marcus Harrison Green)

Before you move on to the next story …
Please consider that the article you just read was made possible by the generous financial support of donors and sponsors. The Emerald is a BIPOC-led nonprofit news outlet with the mission of offering a wider lens of our region’s most diverse, least affluent, and woefully under-reported communities. Please consider making a one-time gift or, better yet, joining our Rainmaker Family by becoming a monthly donor. Your support will help provide fair pay for our journalists and enable them to continue writing the important stories that offer relevant news, information, and analysis. Support the Emerald!

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Flavor of the Week: Blue House Café - Chapelboro.com

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By Kelly Kendall

Whether you’re looking for a classic americano, or a more trendy drink like a matcha iced tea with strawberry cold foam, Blue House Café is sure to have the perfect beverage for you. Located on Franklin Street, this vibrant coffee shop aims to bring the Chapel Hill community together one cup of joe at a time.

Blue House Café was started by UNC-Chapel Hill juniors Gabriela “Gabi” Silva, Rebecca Felicelli and Alex Christian. As coffee-lovers and Kenan-Flagler Business School students, the three knew they had what it takes to run their very own coffee shop in Chapel Hill.

It all began with the former Pit Comedy Club building, which is now a venue space called The PITCH. Owned by a UNC alumnus seeking to help future generations of entrepreneurs, The PITCH offered a perfect opportunity for the Blue House team.

Blue House Café is located on Franklin Street at the former Pit Comedy Club location.

The café began as a pop-up in October of 2021. During this time, the team began testing products and gaining a better understanding of the local market. On Jan. 31 of this year, Blue House Café officially opened its doors in its current form. Silva, who serves as the café’s marketing and barista manager, said it was rewarding to see the team’s coffee-fueled dream become a reality.

“By the end of the day, we were all very excited with the progress we’d made,” Silva said. “It was good to have that first day be a culmination of all of our work and be able to step back at the end of the day and be really proud of what we were doing.”

Since its opening day, Blue House Café has hired seven baristas and is always serving up unique flavors. The shop offers classic drinks such as lattes, iced coffee, espresso and a wide selection of teas. However, the café also serves its very own creations such as its seasonal Tarheel Matcha, Neapolitan Skies, and more. For Silva, innovating new drinks has become her creative outlet.

“To be able to have my own space and see what we can do with coffee recipes is not only rewarding, but it’s also fun,” she said. “It is something that is less work and more fun, which I love.”

Baristas at Blue House Café put a unique spin on classic coffee and tea beverages.

All of Blue House’s ingredients and pastries are sourced from local businesses. Its espresso and drip coffee beans come from Carrboro Coffee Roasters, an artisan roaster with over 35 years in the coffee industry. In addition, many of the café’s sweet treats come from its Franklin Street neighbors including Mediterranean Deli and Le Macaron. Silva said it’s Blue House’s priority to support fellow businesses in the area.

“Whenever we buy food, whenever we buy supplies, we make sure it’s through a business or a service company in Chapel Hill,” Silva said. “We know we would not be able to survive without the Chapel Hill community, and this is a two-way street, so we want to make sure we’re also helping other businesses survive.”

The owners of Blue House are dedicated to giving back to the community. They source items like their espresso from local partners.

However, the shop’s goodies are not the only way that Blue House Café is working to support the community, using their space to support the arts. Along with the sweet aroma of fresh coffee, you’ll find the work of local artists on display inside the shop. If you’re lucky, you might also catch a live performance from musicians in the area.

If you’re looking to make your coffee house a home, look no further than Blue House Café. The shop is currently open Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and is located at 462 W. Franklin St. To learn more, visit the café on Instagram.

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Cat cafe in Luzerne County celebrates one year anniversary - WNEP Scranton/Wilkes-Barre

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Cafe Beignet opens brick and mortar location - WRIC ABC 8News

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Cafe Beignet opens brick and mortar location  WRIC ABC 8News

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Cafe Chain is Replacing Dunkin' in Northvale - Boozy Burbs

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The storefront housing Dunkin’ Donuts, which closed recently after being a fixture in the area for decades, has a new tenant coming sometime in the near future.

It will be fast casual bakery-café Paris Baguette, which continues it’s rapid expansion across the tri-state.

They already have Bergen County spots in Fort Lee, Hackensack, Palisades Park and Ridgefield.

The chain specializes in French-inspired goods at their 3000+ global locations (View Menu), including breads, pastries, cakes, sandwiches, coffee and other beverages.

While this appears to be happing soon, there’s no word yet on a potential opening date.

Paris Baguette
260 Livingston
Northvale, NJ
Website

[photo source: Paris Baguette]

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Cafe Duro Opens on Greenville Avenue in Dallas - Eater Dallas

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Right next door to Sister, a cafe has quietly opened. It’s a neighborhood cafe with coffee, including their own in-house brand, which you can buy in bags, wine, paninis, and pizzitas. And it is very possibly the most charming spot on Greenville Avenue. Cafe Duro is from the Duro Hospitality Group, which is behind Sister and The Charles.

The vibe is “Italian-ish.” Some of the plates on offer include a sausage kolache, pickled blueberry danish, olive oil coffee cake, a meatball and jalapeno breakfast polenta cup, and a mortadella muffaletta, in addition to variations on the panini and small pizzas. The pastries are house-made, and you can also pick up sauces and pasta.

Find it at 2804 Greenville Avenue.

Inside Cafe Duro

Stephen Karlisch

Ida Claire introduces CBD cocktails

It’s a lovely day, but a cocktail laced with CBD could make it all the more enjoyable — if that’s your thing. For those who are CBD evangelists, or just CBD curious, Ida Claire announced a new menu of infused cocktails for the summer. They include the “Jungle Bird,” which has CBD-infused Plantation 3 Stars rum, Velvet Falernum, pineapple, papaya, passion fruit, coconut, lime and orange. The “High Tea Thyme” is made with Still Austin gin, Amaro Nonino, CBD green tea simple, lime, lavender bitters and thyme. And the “Leaves of Green,” which has Plantation 3 Star rum, Metaxa brandy, CBD green tea simple, matcha, soy milk, Godiva White Chocolate Liqueur and chocolate bitters. Additionally, local bartenders will craft a rotator CBD-infused cocktail.

Stop in to mellow out your summer. It’s at 5001 Belt Line Road in Dallas.

The “High Tea Thyme,” a CBD infused cocktail at Ida Claire.

Ida Claire

Bishop Cider is getting even bigger

A local favorite is expanding its reach. Bishop Cider announced it has acquired three new properties in Dallas, Arlington, and Fort Worth to open up new “experiences.” Bishop Cider bought Wild Acre brewing, and the first will be at its site in Fort Worth, with more details to come in the fall. A teaser photo of what the company is working on is below.

Wild Acre beer will continue to be produced on the site with a brand refresh. Cidercade, their brewery and entertainment complex, will open a new location elsewhere in Fort Worth by the end of the summer. A new Cidercade Dallas is under construction at a new place that will be ten times as large (but remain open in its current spot until then) at a date to be announced. And a massive Arlington location will open before the end of the year.

Bishop Cider’s new Fort Worth outpost

Bishop Cider

Coupes Champagne to open in Highland Park

We told you about a Plano Champagne bar last week. This week, it’s the Shops at Highland Park and a spot called Coupes that plans to open in late summer. One more, and we officially have a trend.

Coupes plans to offer a Champagne-forward menu that includes “sparkling and non-sparkling wines, craft cocktails, and light Parisian-inspired bites.” Coeval Studio is designing the location, and a mock-up below indicates the Parisian vibes will carry through to the decor.

A rendering of the interior of Coupes in Highland Park.

Coupes

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Mobile café Coffi approaches one-year anniversary serving the Blue Water Area - Second Wave Media

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Port Huron-based food truck Coffi will celebrate its first anniversary later this summer and has found success with its unique menu including locally-sourced ingredients alongside some culturally-inspired dishes. 

Tasha Kramarenko, co-owner and founder of Coffi, had always dreamed about opening the business. Having experience managing specialty cafés, it wasn’t until Kramarenko began working at the Raven Café that she met her other half and co-owner and founder of Coffi, Todd Bailey, who had the kitchen and management skills to help make their dream a reality.
 
Launched in July 2021, Kramarenko and Bailey have been serving hungry guests at Coffi behind St. Clair County Community College, during the spring, summer, and fall.
 
Coffi’s menu includes a wide variety of coffee beverages from lattes and cappuccinos, to hot cocoa, tea, and fresh-squeezed lemonade. Kramarenko’s recommended drink to start her day is Black Hole, coffee with an extra shot of espresso. During the summer, Bailey said iced tea is his favorite drink.

Coffi also offers a breakfast menu including bagels, banana boats, and blintzes. A Russian pancake that has been in Kramarenko’s family for generations, customers can have their blintzes sweet with the addition of yogurt, berries, and berry puree or savory topped with Canadian bacon, cheddar cheese, sour cream, and green onion.
 
Kramarenko and Bailey are passionate about using locally-sourced products. Their coffee is freshly-roasted coffee by the Exquisite Corpse Coffee House in Port Huron, loose-leaf teas from Earth’s Natural Herbals in Port Huron, and homemade honey syrups provided by Arnold Apiaries in Deckerville.
 
“I didn’t want to buy Monin or DaVinci – all the name brand flavors that every coffee shop has,” Kramarenko says. “I think if we have a unique enough set, where you can’t get blintzes or homemade honey syrups at Tim Hortons or Starbucks, then it’s not being, ‘me too.’”
 
Kramarenko and Bailey wouldn’t be where they are today if it wasn’t for the support from their management at the Raven Café. Currently, they work at the Raven Café one to two days a week and the remainder at Coffi except during the winter when the food truck isn’t operating.

“They were very accepting and happy for us,” Kramarenko says. “For them to let us have a foot in the door at their establishment while we’re trying ours, that’s really what you need at the beginning with a small business – somebody who’s there to catch you.”
 
To see the full menu or learn about catering opportunities, visit coffi.cafe and stay up to date on the latest offerings at facebook.com/Cofficafe.

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Sweet Potato Cafe On Restaurant Impossible - Chew Boom

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Adams celebrates re-opening of Firehouse Café with ribbon cutting - Spectrum News 1

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ADAMS, Mass. - The town of Adams is celebrating the reopening of the Firehouse Café on Park Street after it was closed for nearly a decade.

“This was the perfect place,” said Xavier Jones, co-owner and executive chef. “The owner of the building always wanted me to come in and be the executive chef. I always wanted to build it, so it was kind of just the perfect location for it.” 

---

What You Need To Know

• The Firehouse Café on Park Street is re-opening after nearly a decade of being closed

• It will feature a Mediterranean-inspired tapas menu and local artwork on the walls

• The Firehouse is one of several business opening in downtown Adams in recent months

• The grand opening celebration is Saturday May 28 at 4 p.m.

---

Jones wants to turn the restaurant into a destination, with a Mediterranean-inspired tapas menu and local artwork on the walls.

“We want to give people a reason to come here, besides just the food,” said Jones. “We know they’ll come for the food, but we want people to say, ‘Okay, let’s go to the Firehouse, they have great artwork, the atmosphere is great.’”

The Firehouse is one of several new businesses opening in Adams in recent months. Town administrator Jay Green said there’s finally momentum towards revitalizing the downtown area.

“We’ve had a lot of good people that have wanted to invest in Adams and the town supports them,” said Green. “It’s word of mouth, and it’s also the location. This is a quintessential New England downtown. Come take a look at it. We’re open for business.”

The cafe will officially open with its grand opening celebration this Saturday, May 28 at 4 p.m.

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Boston’s Hard Rock Cafe set to close - Boston.com

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Eater Critic Finds 'Best Pastas I've Tasted All Year' at Cafe Spaghetti - Eater NY

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Red-sauced Italian American fare dominated our Italian restaurant scene until Tuscan cuisine arrived with a bang around 40 years ago. Our regard for its simple recipes, seasonal ingredients, and wood-burning ovens quickly became a culinary obsession, while tomato-sauced pastas took a back seat. Not long after, other regional Italian cuisines like Roman and Venetian arrived and continued the trend of recreating recipes diners would find in Italy. But an exceptional new restaurant in Carroll Gardens that’s been open three weeks aggressively turns its focus back to the Italian American fare of a century ago, and it goes by the unimaginative name of Cafe Spaghetti.

Spiedini alla Romana, a Roman toasted cheese sandwich.

Take the spiedini alla Romana ($15). In the ancient red-sauced joints of the city, it’s often a battered and deep-fried cheese sandwich smothered in tomato sauce. At Cafe Spaghetti, by contrast, the dish is updated: Still fundamentally a toasted cheese sandwich, it finds itself sluiced in a light lemony sauce sparsely dotted with tomatoes and anchovies, with mozzarella made recently in the kitchen oozing from the cut surfaces — a triumph of Italian American cooking updated for modern times.

Chef Salvatore Lamboglia (center) relaxes for a moment at the bar.

Located across the street from Ferdinando’s Focacceria, NYC’s oldest Sicilian restaurant, Cafe Spaghetti occupies a deep narrow storefront. Entering under a green awning, diners pass a dark bar with a few tables and an open kitchen leading to a small dining room, with displays of timeworn Italian photos, objets d’art, and religious statuary throughout. Along the way, customers will likely spot the Bensonhurst-reared chef Salvatore Lamboglia — bearded, tattooed, and charismatic.

Next, walk down a few steps to one of Brooklyn’s most glorious back yards. A sky-blue Vespa is parked in the center, upon which children cavort early in the evening as adults relax at tables in the vine-covered enclosure as the sun turns the scene golden pink.

Yes, the toasted cheese sandwich blew me away, but then so did the artichokes. It was not the Sicilian standard of a ginormous specimen topped with grated cheese and baked, but baby artichokes cut, crumbed, and fried, then served with aioli for dipping. My dining partner and I sat drinking a wonderful white fizzy wine — Mongarda Glera ($45) from a short-but-interesting wine list — kept on ice on a warm evening, we saw plate after plate of diminutive rice balls fly by dusted with cheese, and regretted not having ordered them. Other antipasti include an octopus-and-potato salad, and a Caesar salad that features sesame seeds, reminding us how close Italy is to North Africa.

Fusilli grosso, attributed to the chef’s nonna.

Orecchiette is shaped like little ears.

My friend and I ordered two pastas from a list of six ($18 to $24), skipping the self-referential spaghetti with tomato sauce as it didn’t seem very interesting compared to the others. Attributed by the menu to Genoa and the chef’s grandmother, fusilli grosso is a playfully large version of the familiar corkscrew noodle, teeming with crumbled meat notably herbaceous, like a drive through the Italian countryside past fragrant bushes of sage and rosemary. Even better was the orecchiette. The ear-shaped pasta dressed with broccoli rabe and pork sausage could serve as a culinary snapshot of Apulia, the region from which many Italian Brooklynites immigrated. The fennel in the sausage reveals itself after other melded flavors, and leaves a lasting impression on your tongue, even as the bitterness of the green vegetable lingers.

Cafe Spaghetti’s eggplant parm comes in a casserole.

These were two of the best pastas I’ve tasted all year and served in generous portions. So it was inevitable, I guess, that the menu took a nose dive at this point. There are only four secondi listed, of a prosaic variety, including a chicken cutlet; branzino with puttanesca — normally a pasta sauce; and a 10-ounce strip steak that doesn’t really belong on this menu and, at $38, is its most expensive item. Instead, we went for “Patrizia’s eggplant parm” ($24), which comes in a casserole and contains both provolone and that wonderful homemade mozzarella. Unfortunately, the dish is heavy as a brick, and the tomato sauce impenetrably dense, although maybe a little ricotta and a little more eggplant might have lightened everything up.

We couldn’t resist trying a couple of the desserts, even though we’d already eaten enough for three or four people. Dad’s tiramisu ($12 — yes, everyone in the chef’s family gets into the act) was airy and tasting mainly of chocolate, more like a souffle than the usual versions around town. Though our mouths had watered at the menu’s mention of zeppole, it turned out to be more like a stuffed cream puff than the deep-fried-and-powdered-sugared dough balls that street-fair attendees love. In this case, a timid pudding had rendered the shell soggy, and even the brandied cherries on top couldn’t redeem it.

Dad’s tiramisu.

So, stick with the appetizers and pastas — along with a glass or two of wine — and have one of the season’s best meals.

Café Spaghetti is located at 126 Union Street, between Hicks and Columbia streets.

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Eater Critic Finds 'Best Pastas I've Tasted All Year' at Cafe Spaghetti - Eater NY
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