The only questions we had going into the 905 Café were: Would it change its name to the 908 Café, having moved across New Haven Avenue from its home in downtown Melbourne since 1997? And would it keep that comfortable, homey atmosphere?
We had no doubt about the quality of the food, which always has been fine.
The answers were no and yes and then some. As for the quality of the food, well, it actually seems better. 905 Café remains a lovely place to enjoy a cup of coffee or tea and a light breakfast, lunch or early dinner.
It has changed in furnishings, if not tone. Gone are the deep, well-worn sofas and old-style chairs, replaced with tasteful, country-style wood tables, chairs, bookcases and occasional pieces, beautifully arranged with notes that the restaurant will connect visitors to High Point furniture.
Now, if you want food or beverages, you always get a table. Good. The same old congeniality and cheerfulness remain. Better.
Food and beverages are much as they were: specialty coffee drinks as well as first-rate just plain coffee, a variety of Constant Comment teas, eggs, salads, sandwiches, wraps and quiches. Specials of the day are written on a board at the counter, where food is ordered and where coffees, flavored syrups, cakes and pastries are displayed.
If you seek a huge salad topped with half a chicken and a ton of shredded cheese, or deli-style roast beef piled on rye, this is not your place. Rather, it’s a stylish incarnation of a tea room, with ham and turkey sandwiches, scoops of homemade chicken, tuna or egg salad nested on greens or a brie apple nut melt, plus plenty of vegetarian fare. It is not, however, ever so culinarily woke; you know, too cool for school.
On our visit, we went for a brie platter ($11.95), a BLT ($7.95) and a maple-glazed apple blondie ($3.95), terrific, all of it.
The brie platter was substantial, perfect for sharing, with crisp mixed greens and colorful, fresh fruit salad, at the top of which was a wedge of decent brie served at just the right temperature and at the bottom of which were slices of “everything” New York flatbreads, all sprinkled with walnuts, which added welcome texture and flavor to all who love walnuts. If you’re allergic, ask the nice people to omit the nuts. Sigh.
The BLT was fine too, with Bibb lettuce, bright red slices of tomatoes and perfectly done bacon, served on toasted whole wheat bread.
You know those desserts you play around with until you get it just the way you want it? The blondie seemed like one of them: chewy, with just enough crispness outside, bits of apple inside and glaze light enough to make the thing interesting. Was it something to satisfy the palate of the most discerning pâtissier? Mais non. Was it something you’d want in your lunch bag? Oh yeah.
905 Café being a coffee house, coffee must be mentioned here, and it was good. The menu has plenty of clever caffeinated beverages, the frozen coffee of the day being Java Chip, with dark chocolate espresso beans blended-in ($6), and the people at a table near ours loved theirs. Having already tasted the plain Costa Rican coffee, I went with a cappuccino ($4), which was done nicely: one shot of espresso, hot milk and perfectly foamed milk. The espresso could have been a touch stronger, but under the circumstances, with good food and company, it served its purpose.
Look, if you want peerless bread and pastries with your café au lait, go next door to Jacqueline’s Bakery and Café. But if you want a fine lunch that won’t weigh you down and a good cup of coffee with it, Café 905 still is your place on what may be the friendliest block in Melbourne.
Or do yourself a favor: Get something from each. See you there.
905 Café
Three and a half stars
Address: 908 W. New Haven Ave., Melbourne
Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays, at present
Call: 321-952-1672
Online: www.Facebook.com/pg/The-905-Café-178858305492194
Other: Juices, lemonade and other soft drinks, including Italian-style sodas, served; milkshakes; kids’ meals.
About our reviews
Restaurants are rated on a five-star system by FLORIDA TODAY’s reviewer. The reviews are the opinion of the reviewer and take into account quality of the restaurant’s food, ambiance and service. Ratings reflect the quality of what a diner can reasonably expect to find. To receive a rating of less than three stars, a restaurant must be tried twice and prove unimpressive on each visit. Each reviewer visit is unannounced and paid for by FLORIDA TODAY.
Five stars: Excellent. A rare establishment to which you’d be proud to take the most discerning diner.
Four stars: Very good. Worth going out of your way for. Food, atmosphere and service are routinely top notch.
Three stars: Good. A reasonably good place with food and service that satisfy.
Two stars: Fair. While there’s nothing special about this establishment, it will do in a pinch.
One star: Not recommended. Don’t bother.
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