S.F. Chinatown’s oldest banquet restaurant Far East Cafe is closing after 100 years - San Francisco Chronicle

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Far East Cafe, one of San Francisco Chinatown’s oldest restaurants, is permanently closing at the end of the month.

Owner Bill Lee told the Chinatown-focused Wind Newspaper that he had no choice — the 100-year-old restaurant can’t survive on takeout alone. Far East Cafe was hanging on when outdoor dining was allowed, but now Lee said he can’t afford to keep going without a clear end to the pandemic in sight. Malcolm Yeung, executive director of the Chinatown Community Development Center, confirmed the news.

Opened in 1920, Far East Cafe is also one of the last two remaining banquet restaurants in Chinatown, making it not just a restaurant but a vital community center. It’s a destination for Lunar New Year luncheons, red egg and ginger parties for babies, grand weddings and fundraisers for charities and politicians.

The 15,000-square-foot, two-story space has barely changed over the years, from its ornate antiques to large hanging lanterns to private dining booths separated by wood partitions. Its lengthy menu, too, has remained focused on Cantonese and American Chinese dishes since the 1930s. Lee, who’s had it since 1999, is one of just three owners of the restaurant since its debut.

Of course, those massive events — and busloads of tourists — that normally kept Far East Cafe humming couldn’t happen this year.

For decades, Chinatown had five enormous banquet restaurants but they’ve steadily closed and transformed into higher end establishments. Michelin-starred Mister Jiu’s replaced Four Seas. China Live and Eight Tables replaced Gold Mountain. And Empress by Boon, owned by the former executive chef of glitzy international chain Hakkasan, plans to open in the former Empress of China space once indoor dining is allowed.

Chinatown community leaders have expressed concerns about the loss of these banquet restaurants, saying there’s a huge need for large gathering spaces that serve affordable meals — pandemic aside, at least. Once Far East Cafe closes on Dec. 31, that will only leave New Asia, which opened in 1987 and is currently operating as a grocery store because of the pandemic.

Far East Cafe. Closing Dec. 31. Open for takeout. 631 Grant Ave., San Francisco. 415-982-3245

Janelle Bitker is a San Francisco Chronicle staff writer. Email: janelle.bitker@sfchronicle.com

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