Best comfort foods in the San Fernando Valley: Black Bottom Southern Café - LA Daily News

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Editor’s note: Restaurant critic Merrill Shindler is grateful for the joys of takeout – especially during these times. This week, he’s highlighting his favorite local restaurants for comfort food. Previously, he dished about Nat’s Early Bite Coffee Shop in Sherman Oaks. … If you’re hungry for more of Merrill’s adventures, watch this space: www.dailynews.com/author/merrill-shindler

Black Bottom Southern Café

4806 Vineland Ave., North Hollywood; 818-856-8532, www.blackbottomcafe.com

Black Bottom brings back warm and cozy memories of great soul food restaurants of the past — like Homer & Edy’s, and Aunt Kizzy’s Back Pork (which carries on these days as Dulan’s Soul Food). They’re the sort of places you went to when you needed the solace of smoked brisket and chicken, shrimp and grits, and some fine cornbread and hoe cakes. All of which you’ll find at Black Bottom, with its commanding sign over the small parking lot that reads: “Welcome to NoHo…J’eet Yet?” The answer is…no. But soon. And the sooner, the better.

The joy of Black Bottom for me is the smoked brisket, which is tender and ever so smoky, a bit of art made of meat, served in a sandwich, on either a Sally Lunn bun (rich with the flavor of yeast), or ciabatta bread, with sweet potato fries, the bun topped with mesclun salad, tomato, butter pickles, banana peppers, red onions and chipotle aioli.

There’s a pulled chicken sandwich too, with vinegary “not yo’ mama’s slaw.” A shrimp po’boy, with more of that chipotle aioli. A smoked chicken wrap and a grilled cheese and turkey sandwich, with pimento cheese spread.

And that brings us to one of the most iconic of Southern ingredients. Traditionally, pimento spread is made with cheddar, cream cheese, mayo, garlic powder, cayenne, onion powder jalapeños and pimentos. It’s ubiquitous south of the Mason-Dixon Line. And pretty much unknown to the north. Like sweet tea, it’s a Southern dish you have to grow up with to appreciate. But with a bit of work, you can still find a love for the stuff — even if it could stop your heart in mid-bite.

The combination meals are called “Old School Meat & Three.” This is truly classic Southern service — smoked brisket, smoked chicken (referred to as “smoked yardbird”) and pulled chicken, served with three of the 11 tasty side dishes — mac and cheese (made with sharp cheddar, white cheddar and asiago, so revisionist!), Cajun dirty rice (a wonder and a joy!), hush puppies, tempuraed okra and more. The collard greens are made with baby kale — so California! And so good! And as ever, soul travels real well.

Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Email mreats@aol.com.

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Best comfort foods in the San Fernando Valley: Black Bottom Southern Café - LA Daily News
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