On July 1st, Growler’s Taproom at 803 SE 82nd Avenue will change its name to Covert Cafe in recognition of its new food menu and expanded service. Patrons can continue to order from an extensive selection of beers on tap but now have access to an array of meaty dishes to pair with their brew of choice. Since its early days, the drink-focused business partnered with food cart operators to offer meal options for guests. However, after the Thai Me Drunken Noodle owner decided to shut down their 82nd Avenue cart, Covert Cafe owner Joe Rodgers looked to his past restaurant experience to fill the void.
Inside the cafe, Rodgers pushed the counter seating forward to make room for a commercial flat-top grill and food prep area in a triangular kitchen behind the bar. That work caused a week’s long closure but added more seats for the returning customers. The original live-edge bartop became window seating, and Rodgers updated the sound system with tablet-based controls for quick adjustments.
Efficiency is essential to running the cafe, as Rodgers is the only employee. Covering food service and bartender duties will challenge his skills. However, he is no stranger to working alone and has run the location by himself for five years. His food service skills were honed at an early age making this work second nature. “I’ve been doing bar and restaurant stuff since I was 14, I did 16 years in the kitchen, and then I wised up and got a front-of-house job so I could make more money,” remembered Rodgers. He then worked as a consultant helping other business owners optimize their operations. Eventually, an opportunity lured him back into hospitality work, and it has consumed his life since. “Finally, I ended up deciding to do it for myself because I’ve not seen enough people go crazy trying to do it,” said Rodgers sarcastically.
Over the last few weeks, Rodgers tested recipes with his regulars, finding the right flavor notes. The menu is unique compared to the cart offerings guest had become accustomed to. It features comfort foods with a significant meat focus. “I do lots of steak because I buy half the cow at a time,” explained Rodgers. He chose quality food items that would keep prices within reason. “I’m trying to focus on the idea of not pricing out my neighborhood,” explained Rodgers. However, that attention to cost and his need for efficiency does not mean the cafe needs to cut corners. “My bacon jam takes 16 hours to make. Everything in it is made from scratch in-house.” Similarly, he prepares the other menu items with the same attention to process.
Rodgers explained that the name change to Covert Cafe is a nod to the location’s inconspicuous placement. “We’re kind of hidden. Nobody really expects that this place is here.” He is comfortable with some anonymity, as the cafe focuses on serving the neighborhood, but he looks forward to increasing his customer base and, ultimately, the cafe’s hours. “The whole goal is to get busy enough that I can’t do it anymore. Then I freak out and hire somebody.” With enough money coming in, Rodgers envisions opening for breakfast and lunch sometime in the future. He already has a space plumbed and ready for an espresso machine.
For Rodgers, the renovation work is nearly done. He recently finished expanding his outdoor covered seating area, taking over the space once reserved for carts. He built the new addition with few openings, blocking most light and providing a more enjoyable viewing environment for those watching the projected programming in the “mini movie theater” on the patio. Entertainment, games, beer, and food play into the harmonious community that frequents this location. Now that he has integrated food service into the business, instead of through a cart partnership, Rodgers feels customers will have a reliably great experience, which is what he wants most. “Community is a huge piece of what we do here, and I just want to make everybody happy with a good meal,” said Rodgers. Covert Cafe is open from 4 p.m. to midnight, Wednesday through Sunday.
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July 01, 2023 at 06:45AM
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Growler's Taproom Becomes Covert Cafe – Montavilla News - Montavilla News
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