After Decades in the Restaurant Business, Andrew Carmellini Opens Café Carmellini - The New York Times

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Marcus Samuelsson opens Metropolis in the new Perelman Performing Arts Center, Blue Ribbon adds a chop house spot to its lineup and more restaurant news.

Headliner

Café Carmellini

The chef Andrew Carmellini’s trajectory has been a steady climb, not a rocketing blastoff. Now, having reached cruising altitude after 30 years at the stove in New York, a city where his family has roots, he’s finally putting his name on a restaurant. It’s in a first-class building, formerly a bank and now a hotel, designed by McKim, Mead & White and offering a spacious dining room at double height with an open kitchen on one side, a plethora of detailed finishes in wood, and mirrors and bronze throughout. It’s a gracious setting — “tablecloths are back,” he said. Wine-friendly, French-Italian dishes include Wagyu carpaccio; veal tongue Castelluccio (with lentils); crab and Meyer lemon salad; lobster cannelloni with caviar; sole Normande; black bass with truffle zabaglione; squab en croûte; and scallops Cardoz that pay homage to Floyd Cardoz, known for his interpretations of Indian food. Mr. Carmellini plans to spend most of his time at this new flagship working with his chef de cuisine, Kyle Goldstein. The pastry chef, Jeffrey Wurtz, has a diverse repertoire, including sticky toffee pudding, olive oil cake with Sorrento lemon, and passion fruit chiboust with coconut sorbet. The wine cellar, overseen by Josh Nadel from NoHo Hospitality Group, Mr. Carmellini’s company that’s also running the food and drink for the hotel, has some 1,800 labels. There will be three sommeliers on duty. (Opens Thursday)

250 Fifth Avenue (28th Street), cafecarmellini.com.

Opening

Metropolis by Marcus Samuelsson

This spacious, somewhat industrial yet warmly toned lobby restaurant, designed by David Rockwell in the new Perelman Performing Arts Center, is ready for prime time. It welcomes with a 40-seat lounge and a 135-seat restaurant that also has a seasonal terrace. There’s a wine bar and a private dining room, all run by Marcus Samuelsson with the executive chef Ed Tinoco, the chef de cuisine Marcelo Malta Andrade and the pastry chef Onika Ayana Brown. Their menu has its eye on New York with local oysters; a sumptuous market platter of grilled, pickled and fermented vegetables with dips; and aged Long Island duck with mole, foie gras and peaches. There’s even a drink called Catskills Old Fashioned. (Wednesday)

Perelman Performing Arts Center, 251 Fulton Street (Greenwich Street), 212-266-3018, metropolisbymarcus.com.

Blue Ribbon Sushi & Steak

Bruce and Eric Bromberg’s shape-shifting collection of restaurants now includes this one, just a stroll from the paint at Madison Square Garden. It’s their first to offer a chop house grill angle, along with tastes of nearly everything you’d find under the Blue Ribbon name, including the fried chicken. Cuts of American beef, domestic Wagyu and Japanese Wagyu are featured, along with a Kurobuta pork chop, swordfish steak, fried rice, raw bar items and dozens of sushi and sashimi choices by the piece, the roll or the platter. The sushi is listed according to ocean source, Atlantic or Pacific. The 150-seat restaurant includes a sushi counter, a bar and outdoor seating.

1 Penn Plaza (West 33rd Street), 347-929-0404, blueribbonsushiandsteak.com.

Allure

The Upper West Side has acquired another fine dining restaurant, this one from City Nights Hospitality, which runs Ascent Lounge, in the Shops at Columbus Circle. Set within a glass atrium in the historic 120-year old Beaux-Arts-style Hotel Belleclaire designed by Emery Roth, an architect responsible for many of the neighborhood’s handsome apartment houses, it offers a contemporary menu from the chef Joshua Vasquez. You’ll find a fancy Wagyu hot dog, burrata, grilled prawns, baby Gem salad, crab pappardelle, whole grilled rainbow trout and a half roast chicken. (Thursday)

Hotel Belleclaire, 2175 Broadway (77th Street), 646-992-9077, allureloungenyc.com.

Casa Bond

In an opulent setting with marble and crystal chandeliers, regional Mexican fare — from Tulum and the Yucatán to Baja California and Sinaloa in between — is given star treatment. Guacamole with lobster or caviar (a felicitous combination), lobster ceviche, a surf and turf taco with shrimp and steak, cochinita pibil, and cylindrical churros filled with caramel mousse are ambitious choices from the chef and partner, Rodrigo Abrajan, who got his start with a street cart in East Harlem 30 years ago. His partners are Mike Khuu and Luis Villanueva. (Wednesday)

334 Bowery (East Third Street), 917-639-3009, casabondnoho.com.

Swoony’s

Sal Lamboglia is building on the success of his Cafe Spaghetti with another unpretentious spot, this time with a bit more polish in a rich blue and cream setting with vintage accents. But the bistro feel continues. And that goes for the menu, which doesn’t compete with the pasta lineup at Cafe Spaghetti nearby but offers clams casino, lamb meatballs with cucumber and yogurt, a double cheeseburger and seared halibut with brown butter, leeks and cauliflower. Mr. Lamboglia notes that his father once worked at Cucina Napoletana, previously in this location. (Wednesday)

215 Columbia Street (Sackett Street), Columbia Street Waterfront District, Brooklyn, swoonys.com.

Mykonian House

This new Upper East Side spot has just about every dish you’d find at a typical New York Greek restaurant. You can be confident ordering without looking at the menu.

25 East 83rd Street, 212-901-5333.

Fossetta

Italian and Mediterranean fare, like chicken liver rigatoni, smashed eggplant with garlicky tomato confit, and a cunning take on vitello tonnato with egg instead of veal, are on the menu at this wine bar. It’s from Julie Park, the owner of Café Colette, with Charlene Santiago, the chef, and Joshua Even, running the wine side of things.

198 Allen Street (East Houston Street), 646-430-1249, fossetta-nyc.com.

Gaudir

This elegant little Spanish restaurant serving tapas, paellas for two and main dishes like bacalao a la Vizcaina, has reopened after a summer vacation.

251 East 110th Street, 212-744-4422 ext. 3, gaudir-spanish-tapas.com.

Kolachi

The paratha roll, a savory Pakistani street food popular, is made and sold at this storefront in the East Village. (It’s not to be confused with the Czech-Hungarian sweet nut roll, kolache, as dispensed by Brooklyn Koalche and its spin-offs.) The soft, flaky, deep-fried flatbread can be filled with chicken, beef or vegan mock chicken, with a coriander sauce to add. Saif Qazi and Kiran Lutfeali, the married owners, opened the store, which has minimal seating, because he missed paratha rolls His chef is Adam Perez. But don’t plan on lunch; it opens at 4 p.m. on weekdays, 11 a.m. on weekends. (Thursday)

130 First Avenue (Eighth Street), 917-262-0633, kolachirolls.com.

Edith’s at Nordstrom NYC

Elyssa Heller’s tiny shop serving Jewish style sandwiches in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, many of them made on bagels, has shown up in the Nordstrom store in Midtown. It will serve breakfast and lunch items, including a bacon, egg and cheese sandwich with a latke and the Edith, similar to a Reuben with house-smoked pastrami. Edith’s items will be served at the store’s Jeannie’s and Burger Bar counters on Lower Level 2. daily, through Jan. 3. A pop-up takeout counter will be open until 6 p.m. (Sundays until 5 p.m.).(Wednesday)

Nordstrom NYC, 225 West 57th Street.

Chefs on the Move

Emile Desmet

This Belgian chef who worked at Le Chateaubriand, a Parisian hot spot, for eight years, will be next up in the kitchen at Fulgurances, Laundromat in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, which has a rotating roster of guest chefs. His residency will end Dec. 31.

Closing

Momofuku Ko

David Chang’s high-end and well-received tasting menu restaurant will call it quits after dinner on Saturday, giving the marquee chef more visibility on grocery shelves and online than in dining rooms.

8 Extra Place (First Street), 212-203-8095, ko.momofuku.com.

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After Decades in the Restaurant Business, Andrew Carmellini Opens Café Carmellini - The New York Times
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