Where to Circus Cooperative Cafe on Putnam Street, Cambridge, in a former Darwin’s location (before that, the storefront was Petsi Pies, and before that, Cremaldi’s).
Why When Steven and Isabel Darwin closed their cafes in 2022, four former employees decided to turn one location into a cooperative. The new establishment opened in early September.
The back story Circus Cooperative has four worker-owners, including Caleb Zedek, Kelly Hunter, and Bartholomew “Bic” Cass. The group (one prefers to stay behind the counter, out of the limelight) kept the turquoise blue walls, worn floorboards, and equipment from the old Darwin’s, along with some of the popular sandwiches, such as the Mt. Auburn (turkey, Swiss, avocado). Darwin’s founders are now the new group’s landlords. The model for running a cafe as a co-op, says Cass, is not well known in this region. He calls setups like the one he’s part of “customer-facing worker cooperatives.”
What to eat There are several breakfast sandwiches made with eggs. At lunch, try one of the new sandos: the Hummanist, pronounced like hummus and filled with it, along with bell pepper, sun-dried tomatoes, and cucumbers; the Ngo Van, named for the Vietnamese activist, and layered with ginger-marinated tofu and vegan slaw; Gochujang Chicken Salad with housemade pickles, just renamed Oldboy, from the 2003 Korean thriller. Sandwich breads used to be thick slabs of sourdough and seven-grain (both were soft and squishy), but recently changed to Nashoba Brook Bakery loaves from West Concord. Nutella Cruffin from Flourhouse in Newton is outstanding, as is the bakery’s chocolate chunk cookie. Apple Bottom Muffins are also in the case this season.
What to drink High-quality coffees from Equal Exchange (also a co-op) and teas from local wholesaler and retailer MEM.
The takeaway Service is always noticeably better at shops where the owner is taking your order or calling your name to say it’s ready. This crew couldn’t be nicer. They’re using the name Circus because it feels hectic every single minute, says Cass, as any new business would. Maximum seating for the cafe is 36, which includes two couches. New hires will be on track to become owners after six months, so the original quartet has been able to attract good candidates. There is no website, but it’s coming, along with in-house baking, a merch corner, and board games. The cafe will expand its library area. It feels good here and some customers look settled in for the duration. You can’t help but root for the new crew running the place. 31 Putnam Ave., Cambridge, 714-747-9447. Breakfast sandwiches $9.75-$13. Lunch sandwiches $8.50-$14.75. https://order.toasttab.com/online/circus-cooperative-cafe
Sheryl Julian can be reached at sheryl.julian@globe.com.
"cafe" - Google News
October 25, 2023 at 11:15PM
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At Circus Cooperative Cafe, worker-owners prep your order - The Boston Globe
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